Jaegar celebrate the classic timeless style of the British Empire
The Duke of Windsor’s wardrobe is often a magical place to find inspiration for autumn winter designs. With a fabulous legacy of past royalty and courtiers, the depths of Kensington Palace’s archive can provide an excellent feast for the eyes when it comes to tailoring which oozes charm and style.
The exquisite detailing, sartorial elegance and authenticity of these pieces are extracted and made modern. Building on Jaeger's long-standing reputation, and the great winter coat is central to the collection.
Brushed mohairs, cashmeres, wool Meltons boucles and wool jerseys in rich tones of navy, black, vicuna, Guardsman red, military green and ivory with strong highlights of cerise, colonial yellow, rust and turquoise make up the pinnacle of the collection. Coats, which are a Jaegar signature come in a multitude of silhouettes and lengths, mixing traditional detailing with flamboyant creativity. Whether cropped or dramatically floor-sweeping, they were abundant in their number and proportions. From the opening look of a cut-at-the-hip navy reefer coat, whose huge lapels swooped down to the waist in a generous curve, that was teamed with neat, slim-fitting grey trousers, it was clear that a play on coats was at work.
Jaegar does all the right things –collaborating with Noel Stewart for stunning peaked caps, along with shoe designer Michael Lewis for cool sheepskin ankle boots and a beautiful array of models.
Jaegar also shows off all the right ingredients at its shows with new languid bent, high waists, pleat-fronted trousers, graphic prints, cape coats, plenty of belts and a new sophisticated take on velvet.
This is reminiscent of the British Empire during colonial times as was the influence of the spicemarkets of Cairo and Bombay - brought to life through the rich palette of mustard, paprika, khaki, chilli-pepper red, navy and blacks.
The fresh-faced girls carried bags that had elements of antique luggage to them, recalling the colonial theme.
Knits were deliciously chunky and, in one instance, came as a khaki sweater dress that was worn with a navy boiled wool scarf that had its own reefer collar and pockets, with the whole ensemble being given some shape via a slim belt fastened at the waist.
"I liked the new riff on the reefer - oversized lapels, longline or sleeveless," said Vogue's market editor Emma Elwick-Bates. "The grown-up knits were high on style in lovely Seventies autumnal shades of russet and teal."
Elsewhere, coats came in polite Prince of Wales checks, houndstooth and wool meltons and were worn over just-below-the-knee skirts that had a fresh Seventies feeling to them - especially when worn with the great, stack-heeled knee-high boots with spat detailling. Silk chiffon blouses in bright pops of colour were teamed with flowing harem pants and also with leg-flattering trousers that had crisp pleats at the front and back.
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